Any large city in the world has a neighborhood that is famous for its prestigious and affluent status. The city of Moscow is not an exception. It is full of beautiful and prestigious places. While walking through Moscow one can see various neighborhoods with distinctive history and characteristics that gives them a prestigious status. One of the most exclusive ones in modern Moscow is the neighborhood of Patriarch’s Ponds. The district of Patriarch’s Ponds has a rich historic background and cultural heritage. Historically it dates back to the eighteenth century when it fist appeared on the map of Moscow. In terms of culture, it has always attracted writers and people of arts up to modern days. In time the neighborhood has evolved not only into a cultural center, but also into a favorite place of Muscovites to meet and spend their leisure time. The focus of this essay will be on the main characteristics of the neighborhood of Patriarch’s Ponds. It will include the area’s historic significance and cultural role up to present day Moscow.
Patriarch’s Ponds! The name itself suggests a historical value to the place. From the time of Boris Godunov the lands of Patriarch’s Ponds were given to the Muscovite Patriarchs of the Russian Orthodox Church. Before that it was called Goat’s Sloboda, and then it became Patriarchshaya Sloboda, which is the origin of the modern name. The area of Patriarch’s Ponds is located in the main Garden Circle, which are the old borders of the city. Modern Moscow has three rings that serve as highways, but before the twentieth century Moscow had only one ring which is the Garden Ring. Back in seventeen century in the period of Muscovite Principalities the borders of the city were defined by the walls of the fortresses that surrounded the city. Therefore the appearance of the rings is the main track to observe the city’s development territorially. The Patriarch’s Ponds are located inside the Garden Ring which nowadays categorizes the area to the downtown area. It is located in a well-kept district between Tverskoy Boulevard and Garden Ring.
Until the early twentieth century Patriarch’s Ponds was one of the dozen ponds in the city that provided water for agricultural activities.[1] In a way the pond is reminder of not so long Moscow’s rural past. The interesting transformation of Patriarch’s Ponds is that it has become an area in Moscow that is far away from being connected to anything rural. Even though the plurality of the name implies presence of several ponds currently there is only one pond remaining out of three. Throughout the development of the city and the need for new constructions had left only one pond remaining. The water of the ponds was known to have a therapeutic quality as well as some sort of superficial power. In the seventeenth century the ponds were used to raise fish for the Patriarch Nikon.[2] The presence of three ponds is also the reason of the name of the Trekhprudni Pereulok (Three Pond Lane) that is right around the main Patriarch’s Pond. By 1831, the area around the pond was cultivated and the landscape had gained number of trees. A nineteenth century guide to Moscow use to write that the place has become a pleasant route for walks and gatherings[3]. A tradition was formed to make family walks around the pond. Especially for children the pond has become a skating ground during winters, which by the end of the nineteenth century had become a property of the first Russian Gymnastic Society named Sokol. On a weekend evenings the park was being transformed into a stage for musical performances by Military Brass Band.
Present day Patriarch’s Pond is surrounded by building that were built after the Second World War by prominent architects. Most of them were built for the people of Nomenklatura, which were the Soviet elite.
For example, the exclusive House of Lions that was built specially for World War Two marshals by celebrated Muscovite architect Zholtovsky. Shekhtel, another remarkable figure in Moscow’s architecture, build here the famous building of the Argentine Embassy, which is one of the most interesting models of Moscow’s modern style[4]. Another distinctive building is the yellow high-rise that was built for Soviet Aviators. 
It has a typical post-constructivist style that is characteristic to Muscovite architecture of early twentieth century. The buildings around the pond form a square that is like a calm island in the big city.[5]
The latest architectural addition to the square is the building erected during the post-Soviet period. It is built in resemblance to the model of a tower by famous Soviet architect Vladimir Tatlin. The tower is a utopian vision as a tribute to the communist regime. The original Tatlin’s Tower was called the Third International. It was never built by the Soviets due to its expansive cost of materials at a time when Soviet Union needed to recover after the First World War. An interesting aspect of the tower is also the resemblance of it to the bell tower of Novodevichi Convent in Moscow, where Tatlin’s Studio was placed on the second floor. [6] Subsequently, the appearance of the new residential building on Patriarch’s Ponds not only adds an esthetic value to the square, but also a controversial historic value. The luxurious apartments in the building are occupied by current representatives of Russian elite like Alla Pugacheva, the most adored Russian singer of all times.
In present days Patriarch’s Ponds is still a favorite place for Muscovites to spent time. The bath house built in nineteenth century is now converted into a fashionable restaurant that regularly hosts promotional parties. It is one of the most prestigious and expansive places to keep a residence in Moscow. It is also being promoted as a tourist site due to its cultural allure in the capital of Russia. It hosts a monument to Ivan Krylov, a beloved sable writer in Russian Literature. His Statue is surrounded by famous heroes from his sable’s that gives a special aura to the place.
Modern residents of the Patriarch Ponds are very fond of their historic land. In recent city’s planning there was a project that would put a huge iron stove as a monument in the honor Mikhail Bulgakov. A stove because it is a characteristic symbol of Soviet household and also a feature from the controversial novel Master and Margarita by Bulgakov. Eventually, residents have won the long battle against the notorious plan by the city hall. The protest was not directed towards the Bulgakov. It was the physical ugliness of the project that upset the people and also the inside political motivation within the Moscow’s city hall.[7]
The well known novel of Bulgakov Master and Margarita has immortalized the Patriarch’s Pond in its pages. Actually the novel that Bulgakov started to write in early nineteen twenties was published only after his death and after the death of Joseph Stalin.
The controversial novel begins with a scene that takes place on the Patriarch’s Pond. In the first chapter of the book, one of the characters, the young poet Bezdomny, which means “homeless” in Russian, meets up with Berlioz, a magazine editor, at Patriarch’s Ponds. Together they discuss the historical accuracy of Jesus’ life, when Voland, the devil, interrupts their conversation and tells them the story as he had witnessed. The paradox of the plot in relation to the pond is that its name already implies religious theme which is being confronted by the presence of the Devil. The theme of Jesus’ story is being portrayed throughout the novel, as well as the Devil’s visit to Moscow. In the period of early communism in Russia and during Stalin’s regime it was a huge risk to write anything of such nature. Perhaps Bulgakov chose specifically the Patriarch’s Ponds for the first appearance of Devil in Moscow in order to make it more daring and also to accentuate the magnetic quality of the pond. Or may be he himself also adored that neighborhood, since for a little while he was its resident.
The list of famous residents and visitors of Patriarch’s Ponds is endless. From its formation up to present days the neighborhood had attracted the wealthy and the celebrated. After the war and the fire of 1812 the neighborhood had started its new development. During that time famous writer Ivan Dmitriev had chosen the Patriarch’s Ponds as the place of his residence. His presence in the area brought many other writers and poets. Dmitriev was regularly visited by Karamzin, Vyazemsky, Pushkin, Jukovsky, and Bartynsky who also became a resident of Patriarch Ponds[8]. Together, Dmitriev and Bartinsky described their neighborhood as an area where the all the muses are warmly kept “Priut, sianiem muz sogreti”[9]. Among the famous visitors was also the great Lev Nikolayevich Tolstoy, who regularly brought his daughters for a walk around the pond[10].
Starting from late nineteenth century, three generations of the well know actors of that period by the name of Sadovskich resided by the Patriarch’s Ponds. It is known that Olga Osipovna Sadovskich would take a tour around the pond in order to relax after tiring plays[11]. From the early twentieth century here resided the reformer of classical Russian ballet, A. A. Gorsky, who was appointed as a ballet master of imperial theatres. Famous Russian painters like Surikov, who never had his own studio, and Palenov spent quite a time painting simply standing by the pond. Other significant figures in the history of Russia and Moscow that are connected to the Patriarch Ponds are the family of famous scientists Sechenevs, who also resided on the Patriarch Ponds. Another famous resident of the ponds was the musician Ilya Sokolov, who had regular visits from famous composers that includes the magnificent Ferenz List. It was in this neighborhood where famous Russian poet of the Silver Age Alexander Blok chose to spend his only winter in Moscow.
This is where young poet Mayakovski received his first apartment. Sitting by the pond with his friends, young Mayakovski was working on his first self made edition of poems called ‘poschetina obshestvennomu vkusu”[12]. Even though in life of Mayakovski it is a matter of minor significance, for Moscow’s cultural heritage it is a definitely a memorable detail. Another famous Russian writer Aleksey Tolstoy was writing about the neighborhood by calling it a magnetic place, a place that once visited attracts people over and over again[13]. In other words, throughout the formation of the neighborhood, its spirit was evolving with cultural significance.
During my stay in Moscow, decided to visit the infamous district of Patriarch’s Ponds. With a copy of Master and Margarita in my hand, I spent the entire day sitting on its legendary benches by constantly changing them so I could enjoy the view from different angles. I had a lunch in one of the many cozy cafes that surround the pond. I observed the people around me. Some were relaxing on the benches, just like me and others were walking with children. Some were just passing the pond, perhaps as apart of their daily routine. I saw a couple of young painters working by the pond, perhaps they are going to be as acknowledged one day as Surikov and Palenov are. Indeed, the square of Patriarch’s Pond is one of kind in Moscow. Like an oasis in a large busy city of rapid movements and changes, the pond reflects calmness like an asylum for its residence. I experienced its magnetic power, and if not the rain that started suddenly, I would probably sit there until nightfall.
[1] Ruble, Blair A.; Russia’s Colico Heart; in the second Metropolis: Pragmatic Pluralism in Gilded Age Chicago, Silver Age Moscow, and Meiji Osaka, , 2001 Cambridge University Press: 2001, p. 77
[2] Street Guide; http://www.moskva.ru/guide/streets/big_nikitskaya7e.html (available July 24th, 2007)
[3] Moleva, N. M.; Moskva-Stolitsa; Moscow: OLMA-Press, 2003; p. 384
[4] Moleva, p. 386
[5] Schlogel, Karl; Moscow; Munich: Reaktion Press, 2005; p. 118
[6] Schlogel, p. 305
[7] Balmforth, Richard, Literary site saved after residents’ protest, Johnson’s List: April 1, 2003; http://www.cdi.org/russia/johnson/7126-1.cfm (available July 24th, 2007)
[8] Moleva, p. 384
[9] Moleva, p. 384
[10] Moleva, p. 384
[11] Moleva, p. 385
[12] Moleva, p. 385
[13] Moleva, p. 385
Patriarch’s Ponds! The name itself suggests a historical value to the place. From the time of Boris Godunov the lands of Patriarch’s Ponds were given to the Muscovite Patriarchs of the Russian Orthodox Church. Before that it was called Goat’s Sloboda, and then it became Patriarchshaya Sloboda, which is the origin of the modern name. The area of Patriarch’s Ponds is located in the main Garden Circle, which are the old borders of the city. Modern Moscow has three rings that serve as highways, but before the twentieth century Moscow had only one ring which is the Garden Ring. Back in seventeen century in the period of Muscovite Principalities the borders of the city were defined by the walls of the fortresses that surrounded the city. Therefore the appearance of the rings is the main track to observe the city’s development territorially. The Patriarch’s Ponds are located inside the Garden Ring which nowadays categorizes the area to the downtown area. It is located in a well-kept district between Tverskoy Boulevard and Garden Ring.
Until the early twentieth century Patriarch’s Ponds was one of the dozen ponds in the city that provided water for agricultural activities.[1] In a way the pond is reminder of not so long Moscow’s rural past. The interesting transformation of Patriarch’s Ponds is that it has become an area in Moscow that is far away from being connected to anything rural. Even though the plurality of the name implies presence of several ponds currently there is only one pond remaining out of three. Throughout the development of the city and the need for new constructions had left only one pond remaining. The water of the ponds was known to have a therapeutic quality as well as some sort of superficial power. In the seventeenth century the ponds were used to raise fish for the Patriarch Nikon.[2] The presence of three ponds is also the reason of the name of the Trekhprudni Pereulok (Three Pond Lane) that is right around the main Patriarch’s Pond. By 1831, the area around the pond was cultivated and the landscape had gained number of trees. A nineteenth century guide to Moscow use to write that the place has become a pleasant route for walks and gatherings[3]. A tradition was formed to make family walks around the pond. Especially for children the pond has become a skating ground during winters, which by the end of the nineteenth century had become a property of the first Russian Gymnastic Society named Sokol. On a weekend evenings the park was being transformed into a stage for musical performances by Military Brass Band.
Present day Patriarch’s Pond is surrounded by building that were built after the Second World War by prominent architects. Most of them were built for the people of Nomenklatura, which were the Soviet elite.
For example, the exclusive House of Lions that was built specially for World War Two marshals by celebrated Muscovite architect Zholtovsky. Shekhtel, another remarkable figure in Moscow’s architecture, build here the famous building of the Argentine Embassy, which is one of the most interesting models of Moscow’s modern style[4]. Another distinctive building is the yellow high-rise that was built for Soviet Aviators. 
It has a typical post-constructivist style that is characteristic to Muscovite architecture of early twentieth century. The buildings around the pond form a square that is like a calm island in the big city.[5]The latest architectural addition to the square is the building erected during the post-Soviet period. It is built in resemblance to the model of a tower by famous Soviet architect Vladimir Tatlin. The tower is a utopian vision as a tribute to the communist regime. The original Tatlin’s Tower was called the Third International. It was never built by the Soviets due to its expansive cost of materials at a time when Soviet Union needed to recover after the First World War. An interesting aspect of the tower is also the resemblance of it to the bell tower of Novodevichi Convent in Moscow, where Tatlin’s Studio was placed on the second floor. [6] Subsequently, the appearance of the new residential building on Patriarch’s Ponds not only adds an esthetic value to the square, but also a controversial historic value. The luxurious apartments in the building are occupied by current representatives of Russian elite like Alla Pugacheva, the most adored Russian singer of all times.
In present days Patriarch’s Ponds is still a favorite place for Muscovites to spent time. The bath house built in nineteenth century is now converted into a fashionable restaurant that regularly hosts promotional parties. It is one of the most prestigious and expansive places to keep a residence in Moscow. It is also being promoted as a tourist site due to its cultural allure in the capital of Russia. It hosts a monument to Ivan Krylov, a beloved sable writer in Russian Literature. His Statue is surrounded by famous heroes from his sable’s that gives a special aura to the place.Modern residents of the Patriarch Ponds are very fond of their historic land. In recent city’s planning there was a project that would put a huge iron stove as a monument in the honor Mikhail Bulgakov. A stove because it is a characteristic symbol of Soviet household and also a feature from the controversial novel Master and Margarita by Bulgakov. Eventually, residents have won the long battle against the notorious plan by the city hall. The protest was not directed towards the Bulgakov. It was the physical ugliness of the project that upset the people and also the inside political motivation within the Moscow’s city hall.[7]
The well known novel of Bulgakov Master and Margarita has immortalized the Patriarch’s Pond in its pages. Actually the novel that Bulgakov started to write in early nineteen twenties was published only after his death and after the death of Joseph Stalin.
The controversial novel begins with a scene that takes place on the Patriarch’s Pond. In the first chapter of the book, one of the characters, the young poet Bezdomny, which means “homeless” in Russian, meets up with Berlioz, a magazine editor, at Patriarch’s Ponds. Together they discuss the historical accuracy of Jesus’ life, when Voland, the devil, interrupts their conversation and tells them the story as he had witnessed. The paradox of the plot in relation to the pond is that its name already implies religious theme which is being confronted by the presence of the Devil. The theme of Jesus’ story is being portrayed throughout the novel, as well as the Devil’s visit to Moscow. In the period of early communism in Russia and during Stalin’s regime it was a huge risk to write anything of such nature. Perhaps Bulgakov chose specifically the Patriarch’s Ponds for the first appearance of Devil in Moscow in order to make it more daring and also to accentuate the magnetic quality of the pond. Or may be he himself also adored that neighborhood, since for a little while he was its resident.
The list of famous residents and visitors of Patriarch’s Ponds is endless. From its formation up to present days the neighborhood had attracted the wealthy and the celebrated. After the war and the fire of 1812 the neighborhood had started its new development. During that time famous writer Ivan Dmitriev had chosen the Patriarch’s Ponds as the place of his residence. His presence in the area brought many other writers and poets. Dmitriev was regularly visited by Karamzin, Vyazemsky, Pushkin, Jukovsky, and Bartynsky who also became a resident of Patriarch Ponds[8]. Together, Dmitriev and Bartinsky described their neighborhood as an area where the all the muses are warmly kept “Priut, sianiem muz sogreti”[9]. Among the famous visitors was also the great Lev Nikolayevich Tolstoy, who regularly brought his daughters for a walk around the pond[10].
Starting from late nineteenth century, three generations of the well know actors of that period by the name of Sadovskich resided by the Patriarch’s Ponds. It is known that Olga Osipovna Sadovskich would take a tour around the pond in order to relax after tiring plays[11]. From the early twentieth century here resided the reformer of classical Russian ballet, A. A. Gorsky, who was appointed as a ballet master of imperial theatres. Famous Russian painters like Surikov, who never had his own studio, and Palenov spent quite a time painting simply standing by the pond. Other significant figures in the history of Russia and Moscow that are connected to the Patriarch Ponds are the family of famous scientists Sechenevs, who also resided on the Patriarch Ponds. Another famous resident of the ponds was the musician Ilya Sokolov, who had regular visits from famous composers that includes the magnificent Ferenz List. It was in this neighborhood where famous Russian poet of the Silver Age Alexander Blok chose to spend his only winter in Moscow.
This is where young poet Mayakovski received his first apartment. Sitting by the pond with his friends, young Mayakovski was working on his first self made edition of poems called ‘poschetina obshestvennomu vkusu”[12]. Even though in life of Mayakovski it is a matter of minor significance, for Moscow’s cultural heritage it is a definitely a memorable detail. Another famous Russian writer Aleksey Tolstoy was writing about the neighborhood by calling it a magnetic place, a place that once visited attracts people over and over again[13]. In other words, throughout the formation of the neighborhood, its spirit was evolving with cultural significance.
During my stay in Moscow, decided to visit the infamous district of Patriarch’s Ponds. With a copy of Master and Margarita in my hand, I spent the entire day sitting on its legendary benches by constantly changing them so I could enjoy the view from different angles. I had a lunch in one of the many cozy cafes that surround the pond. I observed the people around me. Some were relaxing on the benches, just like me and others were walking with children. Some were just passing the pond, perhaps as apart of their daily routine. I saw a couple of young painters working by the pond, perhaps they are going to be as acknowledged one day as Surikov and Palenov are. Indeed, the square of Patriarch’s Pond is one of kind in Moscow. Like an oasis in a large busy city of rapid movements and changes, the pond reflects calmness like an asylum for its residence. I experienced its magnetic power, and if not the rain that started suddenly, I would probably sit there until nightfall.
[1] Ruble, Blair A.; Russia’s Colico Heart; in the second Metropolis: Pragmatic Pluralism in Gilded Age Chicago, Silver Age Moscow, and Meiji Osaka, , 2001 Cambridge University Press: 2001, p. 77
[2] Street Guide; http://www.moskva.ru/guide/streets/big_nikitskaya7e.html (available July 24th, 2007)
[3] Moleva, N. M.; Moskva-Stolitsa; Moscow: OLMA-Press, 2003; p. 384
[4] Moleva, p. 386
[5] Schlogel, Karl; Moscow; Munich: Reaktion Press, 2005; p. 118
[6] Schlogel, p. 305
[7] Balmforth, Richard, Literary site saved after residents’ protest, Johnson’s List: April 1, 2003; http://www.cdi.org/russia/johnson/7126-1.cfm (available July 24th, 2007)
[8] Moleva, p. 384
[9] Moleva, p. 384
[10] Moleva, p. 384
[11] Moleva, p. 385
[12] Moleva, p. 385
[13] Moleva, p. 385
Photograph are done by the author
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